10 Things to Do in Venice in the winter

Winter is definitely a great time to enjoy everything there is to see and do in Venice. In addition to the usual attractions on offer, this time of year features two of the city’s major festivals: Christmas and, of course, its fantastic carnival.

Another advantage of spending a few winter days in Venice is that there are far fewer tourists than in summer. This means you can stroll around more peacefully and take in every detail at your own pace. Add to this the chance to witness events such as the arrival of the Befana or the Festa Veneziana sull’acqua, and your trip is sure to be unforgettable.

Winter in Venice is undoubtedly one of the best times to visit the city. In December, for example, you need only stroll through its decorated and illuminated streets and squares to feel immersed in the Christmas spirit, a feeling that will only grow when you visit one of the markets.

The city’s most notable Christmas market is that of Campo Santo Stefano. With the Church of St Stephen as a stunning backdrop, you’ll find all sorts of decorative items at the many stalls set up there. Alongside these products, there are also toys for children, Venetian masks and the most beautiful Murano glassware.

Whilst browsing the stalls at this market, you can also sample a grappa speciality, such as one with a delicious chocolate flavour. Of course, you can opt for a good sparkling wine and pair it with one of the culinary specialities sold there.

Other markets you’re sure to enjoy are those at Campo San Polo, the Palazzo Zenobio, or those set up in Mestre.

However, the Santo Stefano market also has the advantage of its proximity to the Grand Canal. In fact, my advice would be that after leaving the market, you cross that canal and head towards the Rialto Bridge area, a perfect spot to buy some gifts or grab a bite to eat at the bars and restaurants that abound there.

Classical music lovers, or simply anyone wishing to enjoy a concert in one of the city’s most beautiful venues, should know that the winter season in Venice offers a wealth of options, from those held to see out the year to those taking place in the prison of the Doge’s Palace.

To begin with, winter marks the start of the grand opera season at the Teatro La Fenice. Over the coming months, all opera lovers will have the chance to attend performances at one of the world’s cradles of the genre.

Among the special events, the Concerto del Capodanno stands out – the traditional New Year’s concert, held every 1 January. However, you can also hear the same repertoire in the days leading up to it, between 28 and 31 December.

Another major venue hosting concerts throughout the summer season is the Church of San Vidal, just a short walk from the Grand Canal. Many of these concerts are dedicated to the music of Vivaldi.

The Scuola Grande San Teodoro, as part of its cultural programme, also offers Venetians and tourists a large number of concerts. The highlight is its traditional carnival concert in February.

If there is one place that, at first glance, might seem an unlikely venue for musical performances, it is the prison in the Doge’s Palace. However, for some years now, the venue has been the setting for several spectacular Baroque music concerts.

Finally, concerts are organised in some of the city’s palaces, which you can attend. You just need to be quick to get your tickets before they sell out.

After spending New Year’s Eve celebrating the arrival of the new year, the most intrepid Venetians still have one tradition to fulfil: the first swim of the year. If you’d like to join in (or simply be in the area and soak up the atmosphere), bear in mind that temperatures are usually quite low.

This tradition takes place on the beaches of the Lido, where hundreds of daring bathers gather for a quick dip in the icy waters. Of course, the event is open to anyone brave enough to take part, but I advise you to carefully assess your abilities and how you’re feeling after a night of celebrations.

After the swim, the area turns into a small party. Panettone, wine and lentils are handed out to those present, all free of charge (though it is customary to leave a small tip). As there aren’t usually many tourists around, this is one of the best ways to immerse yourself in the authentic atmosphere of Venice.

The best way to get to the Lido is by Venetian vaporetto. In this case, look for the stop at Piazzale Roma. Another option is the train, as several lines depart from Venice to take you to your destination.

On the 12th day of Christmas, 6 January, Italians celebrate the feast of the Epiphany. On this day, a witch called Befana leaves presents for all children who have been good, as well as coal for those who haven’t been so good. In Venice, as well as the official events, you can enjoy the markets set up that day and eat traditional sweets accompanied by hot chocolate.

However, what will catch your attention most if you spend that day in Venice is the way the arrival of the Befana is celebrated (here’s the legend in case you’re visiting Venice with children and want to explain it to them). To begin with, the Venetians dress up as old women and parade through the city, and there are also two interesting events worth seeing.

The first is a race, the Corsa dea Befana, on the island of Lido. This event involves athletes and amateurs chasing the witch, who is riding a motorbike, all over the city.

The second event is even more interesting. It is the Regatta delle Befane, in which the best members of one of the city’s rowing clubs take part. The start is at San Toma, but I recommend you find a spot between the Grand Canal and the Rialto Bridge (one of Venice’s most beautiful bridges) to watch it.

Find a mask, get yourself a costume (no matter how elaborate) and throw yourself into enjoying the first events that kick off the popular Venetian carnival. If you’re in the city in February, you can’t miss the activities taking place over the two days of the Festa Veneziana sull’acqua, featuring spectacular shows and an exciting regatta.

The Festa Veneziana sull’acqua takes place on the Cannaregio Canal (a great spot if you’re looking for reasonably priced restaurants in Venice) during the first weekend of the carnival. On Saturday, a fabulous water show takes place, with various performers putting on their best acts dressed in costumes and masks.

The following day sees the first regatta of the carnival, the Regata delle Columbine. This starts on the Grand Canal, but the most interesting part is at the finish line, in Cannaregio itself. There are numerous stalls selling food and mulled wine, all accompanied by music.

The popularity of these events attracts large numbers of Venetians and tourists. For that reason, I advise you to arrive well in advance at the venues to secure a good spot.

Venice in February means carnival. The festivities begin weeks before the official opening and continue non-stop throughout the roughly 10 days of the event. Leave your shyness behind and get actively involved in the events taking place, as I can assure you they’ll be unforgettable.

During the carnival, it is traditional to take a gondola ride and listen to a serenade, as well as to join in the balls held in the palaces or, if you’re not lucky enough to attend, in the city’s squares. The Doge’s Palace is adorned with two large masks to welcome these days of fun.

The first things that spring to mind when talking about the Venice Carnival are the private balls and the masks. Many of these private parties have a history stretching back centuries and have continued to be held in the very same palaces where they took place in the 18th century.

Unfortunately, it is by no means easy to attend one of them. You can only try to get in to those that charge an entrance fee, and even then only if you buy your ticket almost a year in advance. Don’t forget that there is a very strict dress code: a haute couture costume with a historical theme and a mask.

It’s easier and less formal to attend any of the parties taking place in St Mark’s Square. With a mask and some eye-catching attire, you’ll easily pass for a Venetian. As well as enjoying the festivities, you simply must try the local specialities sold on the streets, especially the sweets.

The best time to admire Venice’s most traditional costumes is the Festa delle Marie, an event where young women are chosen to take part in one of the carnival’s most important parades and the traditional Flight of the Lion.

The selection process begins several weeks before the carnival opens, when a shortlist of candidates is drawn up. One of the requirements is that all candidates must reside in Venice.

Once the 12 Marie have been chosen, a parade takes place from San Pietro di Castello (where the city’s old basilica once stood) to St Mark’s Square. There, each of the Marie is presented to the people of Venice. This parade is visually stunning, as representatives from many historical associations take part, dressed in elaborate medieval costumes.

The tradition of the Festa delle Marie dates back more than 10 centuries. Legend has it that all couples due to marry had to receive a blessing on the Feast of the Purification of Mary, 2 February. Twelve of the poorest brides were selected, and they were lent beautiful dresses and jewellery to adorn themselves. Afterwards, the Doge himself would receive them at the Doge’s Palace, where a lavish feast would take place.

The tradition was interrupted in the year 973, when the city was attacked by pirates during the celebration. The 12 brides were abducted, but the Venetians managed to rescue them shortly afterwards. To commemorate this event, the Festa de la Marie was established.

Whether you’ve been lucky enough to spend the whole carnival in Venice or have only arrived for the finale, the Svolo del Leone ceremony is a must-see. Not only is it a truly beautiful celebration, but it’s also a deeply evocative event steeped in symbolism. Of course, the festive atmosphere with music, drinks and food is not to be missed.

The winged lion is the symbol of the city and has been so since the days of the Most Serene Republic. For this event, the lion is depicted on a huge St Mark’s flag which is hoisted up to the bell tower of the basilica of the same name. Just before this, in a packed square, the winner of the Marie contest is announced.

Whilst this is happening, musicians from La Fenice perform the Hymn of St Mark. When the flag reaches its destination, a magnificent fireworks display begins, bringing the festival to a close.

If the cold really sets in, you might not fancy being out on the streets. A different sort of activity that will allow you to escape the low temperatures for a while is to head down into the city’s underground passages to discover some of its lesser-known attractions. Although it might not seem like it, interesting crypts and passageways are hidden beneath some of Venice’s buildings.

Walking through these tunnels is definitely a unique experience. Usually, tours are conducted by torchlight or with a small torch, illuminating everything from almost forgotten crypts (such as those of San Simeon Piccolo or San Zaccaria) to some frescoes painted underground. You can also see a niche filled with skulls, much like the catacombs.

Winter in Venice brings with it a range of seasonal culinary specialities, particularly sweet treats. To fully experience a trip to the City of Canals at this time of year, it is essential to try some of these dishes, whether on the street or on a food tour.

The first great Venetian speciality is closely linked to the carnival. It is the fritelle, a recipe that seems to date back several centuries. It is a fritter sold at street stalls from a few weeks before the city’s great festival begins. Nowadays, you can find variations such as those filled with Nutella or rum.

Another typical dessert of the city is galani, a type of fried dough similar to castagnole. The main difference is that the latter is served with icing sugar on top.

It must be said that those who hate the cold will find the Venetian climate in winterrather unpleasant. In addition to the low temperatures, the wind chill makes it feel colder due to the fog, humidity and winds such as the sirocco or the bora. In any case, it is always advisable to check the forecast
before travelling.

Even so, there are some differences depending on the time of year within the winter season:

• December: this is the second coldest month of the year, with maximum temperatures of 8°C and minimum temperatures of 1°C.
• January: the coldest month. Highs barely exceed 8°C on average, whilst lows hover around 0°C. It is also the period with the highest probability of snow.
• February: the second half of the month brings a slight change in temperatures. Highs begin to approach 10°C, although lows remain around 1°C on average. On the plus side, it is the least rainy month of the year.
• March: temperatures start to rise, with highs reaching 13°C. At night, however, it remains quite cold, averaging around 4°C.

Although the risk of acqua alta (high water) begins in the autumn months, December is one of the months when this phenomenon is most common. In short, it involves the tide rising to levels that cause the city’s streets and squares to flood.

An official website provides warnings about possible acqua alta, but the forecast is only reliable up to three days in advance. However, most of the time this phenomenon only causes minor flooding that does not prevent life from continuing almost as normal, and it usually lasts between two and three hours.

It is a very different matter when a more serious episode of acqua alta occurs. When that happens, the city’s sirens sound as a warning and the water can cause severe flooding in some areas.

As well as checking these forecasts, my advice is to wear suitable waterproof boots and, above all, to take it easy.

Visiting Venice in winter means, on the downside, having to put up with the cold. Furthermore, daylight hours are significantly reduced, so you’ll need to plan your itineraries very carefully.

However, this season also has advantages that outweigh the aforementioned drawbacks. To begin with, there are far fewer tourists (with the exception of the carnival), which means you can explore the city more comfortably and avoid the crowds. This, in turn, goes hand in hand with lower prices for flights and hotels.

Furthermore, winter in Venice offers some truly interesting activities. To name just two, the Christmas festivities take place in December, whilst February sees the city’s most famous festival, the carnival. For this reason alone, it can be said without a doubt that the trip is well worth it.